What are puppies made of? Dog Training Milton

What are puppies made of? Cuteness, fluff, fun, love and cuddles ... but puppies are also made of other ingredients as they age. And what are some of the other ingredients, you ask? Needle sharp teeth, attitude, energy, independence, curiosity, an obsession to chew, intelligence, drive, demands, and the list goes on.

What puppies are NOT made of is programmable parts or an “easy” button. Here is where a lot of mistakes and misunderstandings are encountered during training. Too many think that once you train a 13-16 week old puppy, they’re done, they shouldn’t have to do more, and the puppy should retain everything they’ve learned at this age. This is a dangerous falsehood, and unfair to the puppy to think of training this way.

The truth is dog training is for life, not just for a month or two when they are young. Every moment of every day in a young puppies life (and any dog for that matter) is potential learning and training opportunities. Every time they are awake, interact with you, play, walk, experience new environments etc. they are learning. Every slip you make, every time you give in, every time your do or do not reinforce something, every time you freak out, get frustrated, are happy, energetic etc. they are learning.

The unfortunate thing is puppies are smart ...really smart, and learn very quickly how they can train us, who they can get away with things with, who’s buttons they can push, who means business etc. (not unlike young children). But puppies are also like young children in the sense that they have to be continuously reminded what the rules are, what is required of them, house hold routines and other such things.

Just as you have to remind your toddler not to touch the lit candle multiple times, you have to remind your puppy what behaviours are appropriate/inappropriate many times throughout their growth.

One puppy class just won't cut it. That doesn't mean you have to take dozens of classes and spend thousands of dollars on training, that just means that you HAVE to do your homework, and you HAVE to keep up with your homework, especially through all the puppy developmental stages.

If you think of your puppy going through all of the stages of childhood (like your own kid would do) this would help to set you up to handle what's coming at you when you add a new puppy to the household. The benefit is that puppies go through these stages a lot faster then children do, but it is no less fair to expect a 6 year old to behave like an adult then it is to expect a 6 month old puppy to show the same restraint, cognitive abilities, self control and stamina that an adult dog would.

Puppies go through terrible two's, adolescence, teenage years, young adulthood, and maturity. Puppies change and develop, loose teeth, gain confidence, realize they are individuals, learn skills, cause problems, talk back, push limits, just as any child would ... except your puppy will never ask to borrow the car. If you can understand all of this, you will be better equipped to handle what obstacles comes up throughout their first years of life.

Be fair to your puppies, set them up for success by sticking to your training program, rules, requirements and routines throughout their growth and into adulthood so that you can help build them into confident, self controlled adults who are a pleasure to be around, and an asset, not a burden, to your family.

Happy Training!

www.smartdogsk9.com

Holding a Sit ... Dog & Puppy Training in Milton Ontario

I am often asked by my clients, is it ok to let their dog lay down during a sit/stay or long sit. And the answer I give is this:

If you plan on competing in obedience, rally-o or protection sports, then there are specific requirements that would make it beneficial for the dog to hold the sit position. If they don't or can't, an NQ (non-qualifying score) will follow in competition, resulting in failure during that particular run.

Now that being said, 98% of the owners coming in for training will never show an interest in competing in dog sports. What I maintain to be the most important aspect of staying is holding the place, rather than the specific position. If I ask a dog to sit, and they do so, but after 20 seconds or longer, they decide to lay down because the dog figures we're going to be a while, there is no point in nagging them for perfection, when in essence, they are doing what we asked, by holding their place beside us. The same thing goes for the sit/stay at a distance. As long as the dog comprehends the initial difference between the two commands, down and sit, and does both independently when asked, it doesn't matter if they slide out to get more comfortable.

There are two items that we have to watch however, one being the "dive and go", the squigglers who were asked to sit/stay, and do the dive in order to crawl forward. The other being the confusion of commands at the get go. We don't want sit to mean down, as there are times that a sit can be more useful then a down, and we want to make sure that the two are clearly defined. These are the only times that I will fix a dogs position back to a sit, and typically it just means the dog needs more work/help in that particular area.

Of course standing up is a big no no, and I'm sticky on the getting up into a sit while the dog is suppose to be maintaining a down, I just won't allow that, but I will save that for another day.

So bottom line, if your plans do not include compeition level obedience, don't sweat the small stuff. If your dog is compliant, engaging and working for you, response should be the goal, not absolute perfection.

www.smartdogsk9.com

R+C+R+C = R : the formula for a good dog

The secret to creating a good dog is a simple formula; R+C+R+C=R. And what, might you ask, does this formula stand for? Is it scientific? Is it math? Does it make the magic powder that, when applied, creates a well behaved dog?

Unfortunately, it is a formula that requires work as, to my knowledge, there are no magic powders that have been developed (yet). The formula requires dedication, and diligence, but when applied, can help to achieve the dog that you’ve always wanted.

So what do the letters stand for? Well, they stand for four of the most important components to canine ownership.

I will go over them in order, and expand upon their meaning, so that you can start to implement the formula in your daily life with your dogs.

R – Relationship

You need to build a relationship with your dog, but this doesn’t mean constantly showering them with affection and attention. This means doing things with your dog, spending time with them in meaningful, constructive ways. Take your dog for a walk, or a hike, play fetch or tug with your dog, incorporate training in all aspects of their life, regardless of how you train or what methods that you use.  Work on engagement and focus skills, make yourself interesting and important for your dog. Teach your dog tricks, teach your dog to fetch you a beer or a bottle of wine. Spend time just being with your dog, even if it’s a lazy Sunday, and you’re watching a movie, or you just want to hang out on the park bench for a while and watch the seagulls fight amongst each other. Teach your dog that the relationship matters. If you don’t have a relationship, you will never move forward with training. With certain dogs, and certain temperaments, it may take a longer period to build that relationship. With other dogs, it takes all of 10 minutes to put the first blocks of the relationship together. What ever type of dog you have, keep at it, and keep at it for the rest of your dog’s life. Trust me, your dog will thank you.

C – Consistency

Consistency is something I tend to force feed my clients. If you are not consistent, your dog will not understand what is expected of him/her. This goes for both obedience training (or what ever type of training that you do with your dog) and every day life rules.

This first example is in regards to simple, every day life rules. If you allow your dog to jump on you when you’re wearing a shirt that you used to change the oil in your car, but then get mad at him/her for jumping on you while you’re wearing your fancy duds on the way out for dinner, and then go back to allowing jumping when you’re lounging around in your sweat suit after a hard day at work, you are being unclear and inconsistent. The dog doesn’t know the difference between your outfits, nor do they care if you are on your way out to impress your new lady or man friend. You are setting them up for failure and confusion by your inconsistency. If you do not want your dog to jump, do not allow it period, regardless of what you decide with be your outfit for the day.

This second example is in regards to obedience training. If you are working on the stay, for instance, and you are strict with your rules on Tuesday and require that your dog must wait for your release in order to get up, but for some reason, you are lax in your requirements on Wednesday, and allow the dog to decide when they will move from the stay, you are sending the wrong, unclear, inconsistent message. If you want your dog to have a solid stay, you must be consistent in the rules for your training, not wishy washy just because you don’t have the patience on a certain day, or the kids are demanding dinner while you practice, or your dog fetched you too many beers the night before. Be consistent and clear, that is the only way to be fair and ensure your dog will understand what is being asked of him/her.

R – Rules

Ah yes, the word that some shy away from and even revolt against. The word that “requires”. The word that creates order and clarity of behaviour. Rules for your dog are VERY important for them to become acceptable members of society. Sure, we can let dogs be dogs, but we can’t let them be dogs without some clear lines that they shouldn’t cross. If you make a rule, stick to it if you want your dog to follow it (remember, consistency). If you decide that you’d prefer your dog not be on the sofa, then make it a clear rule. If you’d prefer that your dog did not jump on guests (which is preferred), then be ready to enforce it. If you’ve decided that you’d rather your dog not fly out the front door every time it opens, make sure you make it very clear to your dog. If you want to teach the dog that it’s actually your house, and not theirs (no matter how much they try and convince you that they make the mortgage payments), require that your dog work for you. There is lot’s of other fair and clear rules that you can set in place to help your dog become the best they can be. Dogs like to know where they stand, and what they can and can not get away with, so help them understand by implementing rules that suit your lifestyle. Without rules, chaos ensues, and chaos breeds stress, fear, frustration and anxiety.

C – Consequences

Now, some will look at the above word and automatically think something negative. This is definitely not the case here. A consequence can be either negative or positive, depending on what you are trying to achieve. A positive consequence can be an addition of a reward, or removal of pressure. A negative consequence can be an addition of a correction or a removal of a reward. When teaching and working with your dog, there should be a balance of consequences, though not all dogs are alike or require the same type of consequences. Some dogs work better with addition of reward, others work better with removal of pressure, and others still will do great with both. There should be a consequence to your dogs behaviour, positive to increase the good things, and negative to decrease the not so good things. Some sort of consequence should be in place in order to clearly let the dog know that they are doing a great job, or that they are breaking one of your rules. If you have clear, consistent consequences your dogs will learn faster and achieve more understanding during their training and every day life.

R+C+R+C does equal something very important. It equals …

Respect

Now, respect must run both ways, dog to human, and human to dog, but if you apply the above, you will most certainly earn your dogs respect, and respect is what keeps a relationship healthy and thriving. Respect is also what keeps your dog following the rules and helps to maintain any training that you put in.

Simple stuff. And keep it simple. Don’t over complicate, be clear, be fair, be consistent and be present. I hope this helps you to enjoy your dog in a more meaningful, healthy way.

*Please note: this article should in no way replace proper training of your dog, and if you are experiencing any behavioural issues, please consult a professional in your area.

© Smart Dogs Canine Training 2015 – no part of this article can be reproduced without written permission

Indoor Activities to Get Your Dog Through the Cold Days - Dog Trainer Milton

Well the cold snap is back again, and there are lots of times in the extreme cold that we do not want to take our dogs out long. So what do do about exercise?

There are many different ways to keep your dog active over the winter months, indoors, large or small.
Number one is practice the training you have started with your dog - set aside 10-20 minutes and go over your sits, downs, stays, comes and heeling. Work on perfecting it under low distraction in your home. When you work your dogs mind alongside their body, they use more energy, feel more satisfied, and I always note that when you do "mind work" in addition to body work, the dogs get way more of a workout.

Number two, teach your dog some new commands and/or tricks. Anything they can learn, no matter how silly it may seem, will benefit your canine companion in both the communication and brain work department. Use their meals as the perfect time to teach new things - get them working for their supper!

Number three, and an awesome one I play frequently, teach your dog to "find". This is a great game if you don't have an area to play fetch in your house. The dog can be either toy or food motivated. Start by having someone hold the dog , or put them in a sit stay, and hide a toy as they watch. Upon release, tell them to "find it". Repeat this process multiple times until the dog catches on to the meaning of the command. Once they do, have them stay or be held in another room or out of view. Hide the toy or treat, go back to them, release and tell them to "find it". You can help if they get stumped. This is a great game for both mind and body work, and fun, fun, fun for drivey dogs.

Number four, if you have the space for fetch, bows the time to teach them in a controlled setting to "fetch" and "give". If your dog isn't a natural fetcher, start on leash . With this game, and with the below game, your dog needs to be taught a proper "give " or "drop it".

And number five, tug! Yes, I said it, and don't believe those that would refrain from having your dog play tug. It's a great game, and can be used to teach self control. Rules need to be implemented, and as above, your dog needs to be taught a solid "give" or "out" before fully engaging, and they should be able to show some self control without re-biting when you've paused. Patience is key, you can work the trade off (tug for treat or other toy), when teaching "give", or you can work the statue (hold very still, with tug against your body, hands on both sides, wait for release, then reward). Key is to be fun while engaging and calm when teaching the "give". This game still offers both mind and body work, gets the heart rate up, and you can throw some obedience or tricks into the game.

There are other ways to keep your dog active is the freezing whether, but these are our favourites that we wanted to share.

Most importantly, Have fun with your dogs!!

www.smartdogsk9.com

Creating Calm - Dog Training Milton

Small tip of the day - one of the best ways to create calm in your dog (and yes, some dogs need to be told to calm down, others do it on their own) is to teach, proof and reinforce the down/stay. It is a position that can be held for extended periods of time, and can be extremely useful when you want your dog out with you, but not being a nuisance. Teach a good, solid down/stay and you're on your way to creating calm with your dog.

www.smartdogsk9.com

A Trained Dog Makes EVERYONE Happy - Dog Training in Milton

Training your dog, of course, benefits your own family and close friends, but training your dog also benefits everyone who your dog comes into contact with. Vets, groomers, dog walkers, pet sitters, people you pass on a walk, etc. are all people who are directly affected by your dogs behaviour, training or lack there of.

Two of the people most affected are your vet and your groomer. They have to handle your dogs in a way that can make them uncomfortable, clean teeth and ears, give needles, take temperatures ... well, you get the point. If your dog hasn't been trained and will not accept handling, their jobs become A LOT more difficult and the stress on your dog can be overwhelming (not to mention cost involved with a dog who will not co-operate).

But, if your dog has been trained, and has learned to accept handling and is reliable it can make vets and groomers jobs a pleasure and possibly reduce your bills in the end. I will relate to you a small story of the benefits of having a trained and reliable dog in a veterinary situation.

We had to rush the little white dog into the emergency vet a while back for a puncture wound. Of course, after speaking with the vet and an initial examination (where she was stoic as usual), they said they would need to take her to the back, sedate her and clean out the wound. At this point, I offered to go back and hold her, telling them she doesn't need to be sedated because she will allow you to do the job with no fuss. As per usual, "the back room" is reserved for vets and staff only, but they said they would see how she reacts and sedate it needed. Cost was not an issue for us, but knowing that sedation of an older dog can cause issues was my motive for helping out.

They took her from me and brought her to the back room for what seemed like an eternity. But when they emerged with a saline solution cleaned, little white dog, awake and happy to see us, they related that she was so well behaved that they neither needed my help, nor did they have to sedate her, making their jobs easier, her life better and bringing the cost of the visit down.

This would not have happened if she were untrained. Untrained dogs will resist handling, they will not heed your words, especially if they are in pain or stressed and they will make everyone's lives more difficult, even if those people are trying to help them.

This is only one of hundreds of reasons why you should train your dog and why it will make yours and a lot of other peoples lives easier. Training your dog is a daily process, and taking advantage of new opportunities to train in, like the vets office, the pet store etc., will be of huge benefit to you both. The dog learns that he/she has to behave, regardless of where they are, and you can relax knowing that your dog will be under control no matter what the situation.

If you need help with any training, please don't hesitate to contact us at dogtraining101@hotmail.com and we can put you on the road to gaining a trained and happy companion. Remember, a trained dog is a happy dog and has a happy owner.

www.smartdogsk9.com

Another New Year, Another New Opportunity to Train ...

Learning how to pull

Make this years New Years Resolution one that will benefit both you and your canine companion. Make this years resolution to train your dog. It's never too late or too early. It's not rocket science, it's common sense. It doesn't have to be a chore, it's fun. It doesn't have to be for nothing, it enhances your dogs life.

Don't think that you need to drill your dog for hours a day on obedience commands, that's unrealistic, and boring for your dog. It takes little effort in the beginning to start; 3-5 times a day, 5 minutes at a time. Everyone who owns a dog has at least 25 minutes a day to spend with their best bud, so why not make that time quality time. Keep your sessions short, fun and always end on a positive with something you know your dog is able to do.

Use every opportunity in your dogs life as a training opportunity. That doesn't mean every waking hour is spent on obedience training (that's what the above 15-25 minutes is for), but it means enforcing basic manners in every day life occurrences. No jumping, no pulling, no mouthing, no mounting and so on. Its easier to prevent problems from day one, rather than correcting them later on. If you don't like a behaviour, don't allow it to happen, period.

Remember exercise is part of a dogs well being, and part of a well behaved dog. Exercise also benefits the human side of the partnership, so make an effort to get out with your dog every day. It will enhance both owner and dog health, it's free, and there is no excuse not to do it.

So make this year's resolution one that will benefit not just you, but your best friend and others around you. Get out there and train your dog! You buddy will love you for it - a trained dog is a happy dog, and has a happy owner.

New classes starting this month with Smart Dogs Canine Training, so here is your opportunity to start training:

www.smartdogsk9.com

But My Dog Still Won't Sit ... Dog Training in Milton Ontario

You've searched out a trainer, you've taken the classes, but your dog still doesn't listen. What's going on?

You need to take a step back and ask yourself, did I really put in an honest effort? Practicing for one hour, once a week will not make a trained dog. Owners need to follow through at home, at the park, on a walk, or where ever they take their dog. If you don't do the homework, don't expect your dog to heed what you're asking.

As the old saying goes, practice makes perfect, and it's no different in dog training. This does not mean that you have to drill your dog for hours on end, each and every day (that gets tedious and boring). It means that if you take 20 - 30 minutes out of your day, every day (say, during commercial breaks, or when it's doggy dinner time), spread it out, and practice in short bursts, keeping it quick, fast paced and fun, you will see much better results than if you rely soley on the once a week classes.

It's unfair to expect your dog to take you seriously when you put in little to no effort.

There is, possibley, another reason that your dog might not be listening, and if you've put in the effort and the time, but are still not seeing results, it's time to revisit the method thats being used. Sometimes a shift in the techniques you are using is required. Not all dogs respond the same to each method. If you think this might be the case, talk to your trainer and explain your worries, that is of course, only if you can truly say you've done your homework, and no, the dog didn't eat it.

www.smartdogsk9.com

Don't Let 'Em - Dog Trainer in Milton

I often find people listing off the issues that they are having with their dogs, but not understanding why they are happening. Of course, we as trainers are here to help them understand and break down any issues, but it truly does come down to common sense.

First and foremost, 9 times out of 10, the owner is to blame for much of their dogs behaviour.

And secondly, if your dog is doing something you don't like ... very simply put, don't let him.

Frustrating answers? I suppose.

But we, as trainers, can step back and take an unemotional stance in order to help our clients come up with the solutions to their problems. Emotions get in the way of common sense, and in the dog-human relationship, the emotions run wild and sometimes common sense does not prevail.

If you find you are having issues with your dog, try to take a step back and consider the situation from a different view-point, and don't let emotions cloud your view. Think about your actions, and then think about your dogs reactions.

If you feel your situation is too difficult, there is no shame in calling in a professional who can help walk you through the problems, give you advice, training tips and results, after all, that's what we are here for.

If you need help with your dog, please don't hesitate to contact Smart Dogs Canine Training in Milton at dogtraining101@hotmail.com and visit the website for details on our training programs www.smartdogsk9.com

Funny at the Food Bowl - Dog Training in Milton

They are out there, there's millions of households that have one this very moment, lurking in your living rooms, under your covers ... they are the picky eaters of the canine world.

Sometimes it's hard to believe that a dog, of all creatures, would decide to be a picky eater. If you're like me, you've only had dogs that will wolf down anything in there path that even slightly resembles eatables. Dogs are opportunistic creatures, so when the opportunity to eat presents itself, many will take full advantage of it.

But then, we have those that turn their nose up at dinner unless it is accompanied by a nice steak sauce, or those who refuse to eat unless their bowl is in a certain area of the house, or snub the food until their owner waits on them hand and foot, feeding them each little morsel by hand.

Are these dogs truly picky eaters, or is there something else going on here?

From my experience through working with clients, and through observation, these dogs are not actually picky eaters, rather they are manipulating their owners, using the food bowl as a hostage.

Now when I say manipulating, I don't mean in the same sense as the way humans manipulate. There is no premeditation here, rather a habit that has built up due to the owner giving in to the dogs wishes.

The dog has become used to being waited upon, or having their food lavishly adorned with special sauces and when they fail to receive this treatment at meal times, they refuse the bowl.

The best way to deal with dogs like this is to use the good old, time tested method of filling the bowl, leaving it down for 20 minutes, and picking it up at the 20 minute mark, regardless if the dog has finished or not. Then trying again at the next meal, with the same process.

Unless your dog has an underlying medical issue, this process usually works over a few days, making the dog realize that he'll be going hungry if he doesn't do the doggy thing and eat his dinner. This is usually enough to break the bad habit of requiring fan fare or special treatment at meal times.

If you have a really stubborn case, it would be beneficial to seek the expertise of a trainer, to make sure that you are approaching the situation the correct way. It is also best to check with your vet to rule out any medical issues that may be interrupting the dogs eating habits.

Please feel free to contact Smart Dogs Canine Training if you are experiencing food related issues with your doggy companion and we would be happy to help.

dogtraining101@hotmail.com
www.smartdogsk9.com
www.facebook.com/smartdogsk9

Socialize Your Dog - Dog Trainer in Milton

The period of time between 8 and 16 weeks in puppies is an extremely important time to positively introduce new people, places, objects and situations to your dog.

Utilizing reward for good social behaviour is key to creating positive experiences for your pup. Its good to remember to choose your socialization situations carefully. Young puppies should only be socialized with low key, respectful (fully vaccinated) adult dogs, or other young puppies. Caution should be taken at this young age when introducing other animals because puppies are vulnerable to disease. If you are unsure, speak with your vet about the best times to introduce others of the canine species.

When choosing people for initial social interaction, try to pick those who are not going to overwhelm your pup. For fearful, unsure, insecure and apprehensive pups, treats can be thrown from the person who the pup is being socialized to, as long as they remain calm and follow your instructions not to overwhelm your dog with rough petting, standing over them, over exuberance, loud voices etc. If your pup will approach strangers, even though cautiously, the owner can reward the approach, so as to avoid any overwhelming behaviour from the stranger. The best way to avoid those over exuberant puppy petters who need to be in your dogs face, is to simply tell them that your pup is in training and at this time can not receive any interaction (or even better for those very insistent people, tell them the dog has explosive diarrhea and may let loose at any time - that usually works).

For the outgoing, bold, confident pup, the owner rewarding the social behaviour, rather than the other person rewarding the pup, will help to teach the dog that you are the giver of the treats (pets, praise etc.) and that you need to be payed attention to. The outgoing, social pup will automatically gravitate to others if they are not taught that the owner is the one who is more exciting. This will help the social butterflies training later on, encouraging focus and attention on the handler, not on others.

As far as places and situations, the best thing to do is try and bring your pup everywhere you can that you think they may encounter later in life. Always create a positive experience while watching for and acting upon signs of stress; lots of yawning, lip licking, flattened ears, tucked tail, shaking etc. If you begin to see signs of stress end the session on a positive note (ie. with a reward for a sit or other obedience command), and bring the pup home.

The above techniques can also be used with older or rescue dogs, though if they missed their critical social period as puppies, the process can take much longer to achieve.

Over all, it is important to create positive experiences when socializing your dog. You will help develop a dog that is more confident and can be taken with you almost anywhere.

If your dog is having problems with socialization, fear or aggression towards others please don't hesitate to contact us at Smart Dogs Canine Training, we are always glad to help. dogtraining101@hotmail.com or visit the site for details www.smartdogsk9.com

The Agility Table, how does it relate? Milton Ontario Dog Training

The table in agility might be one of the most "obvious" pieces of equipment, it's a table, what can really go wrong? But there is plenty that can go wrong, and I have seen it happen many times.

A lot of times the focus is on the harder pieces of equipment, such as the teeter and weave poles, or difficult jump sequences. The table just doesn't seem as important because at first glance, the obstacle looks very simple, however, it is not. Many a dog has pooched (pun intended) a run due to lack of proofing on this piece of equipment.

A dog won't "down" on the table in the rain, refuses to "down" after another dog has been on it, doesn't like the surface texture, hasn't been trained to "down" any where at any time, waits until the 6th time you repeat down before she complies, prefers to sniff than lay down. The dog has never been required to "down" ... if he doesn't, oh well, just try again.

How does this relate to training when you're not interested in competing in sports with your dog?

Well, you may think down is simple and obvious once the dog "knows" the command, so you over look "proofing" the "down". Most dogs tend to be contextual learns, meaning, that sure, they can "down" on the carpet in your living room, but "down" can mean something totally different on the sidewalk outside your home if you have not trained them in that location as well.

Proofing a command by repetitive practice on all surfaces, and in all environments that you think you will need the command in, is vital in order to have a dog that will respond to you where ever you are. Over looking simple things, such as this, may result in confusions for your dog and frustration for you. This goes for all commands, not just "down". Sits, stays, comes etc., all need practice in different environments. This doesn't mean hours on end, but rather a few minutes here and there weekly in order to get and maintain the training that you are hoping for.

Another important factor that is often overlooked is the requirement of the command. If you never require that your dog responds, then don't expect her to respond in all situations or under distraction. Requiring a command means there is a consequence for misbehaviour which can take the form of a verbal or physical correction once the dog fully understands the command. Of course, to be fair, you need to be sure that your dog is well aware of what the command is before you start correcting for lack of response. This means that you've taught the command in all situations with many repititions, and the dog can comply without a lure, coercion or being physically placed. In other words, if you don't require the down at home, why should your dog down on the sidewalk or the agility table. This applies to any and all obedience commands.

Here's two videos of table training with two different dogs. One is experienced, and just practicing, the other is new and just learning. Both are "proofing" their "downs" on a different surface from a normal down.





If you are interested in learning how to proof your dog for all commands, or are looking for help with basic training or issues that you are having with your canine, please feel free to contact us at dogtraining101@hotmail.com and check out the website for details on our training www.smartdogsk9.com

Dogs and Babies - Milton Ontario Dog Trainer

The below article was originally written for the Jack Russell Rescue of Ontario, but it can apply to any breed or mix being introduced to a new child.

__________________________________________________________________

Owners often wonder if it is possible to have their new baby and their Jack Russell Terrier co-exist together in relative harmony. There are often sad stories of terriers being discarded because they didn’t get along with the new addition, but many times there is a lack of education for the owners or a lack of effort to make things work. However, the relationship with your terrier does not have to end this way.

There are four key steps to take prior to and once baby has moved in. Though they make take a little time, owners who love their dogs will find these imperative to creating a desirable environment for both dog and baby. Though there are other steps that one can take, these four are very important.

1. The dog MUST learn and know its place in the pack.

2. Baby MUST be associated with positive but calm consequences however a correction or two may be necessary.

3. The dog should NOT be ignored every time baby arrives on scene.

4. The dog MUST have a safe haven.

THE DOG MUST LEARN AND KNOW ITS PLACE IN THE PACK

This is a step that can be initiated well previous to baby arriving. Every dog, regardless if an infant is involved or not, should learn and know that it is most certainly not the leader in your household. There are very simple ways to achieve this by setting boundaries and rules for your terrier. Basic obedience training can and does help most dogs learn their place; however, terriers are a “take charge” sort of animals, so some extra steps may need to be put in place for these feisty little hunters. Actions such as requiring a sit and wait before putting the food bowl down (do not free feed unless your JRT has a medical issues that requires it), a sit and wait before entering and exiting the house, keeping the dog off of furniture that baby will be on, and out of what will be the new babies room, having the dog move when you need to get by, rather than going around her, don’t leave the dogs toys out for him to pick and choose from and correcting or redirecting inappropriate behaviours. Keeping babies room a “no go” zone is important and should be done without the use of crutches (gates or obstacles). Your dog needs to learn his or her boundaries and crutches should be avoided because there is no real training involved. Once a crutch is removed, the dog will likely go back to entering and exiting whenever he pleases. If you are consistent, fair and repetitive, the above should go smoothly and your dog will soon learn (or be reinforced) that you are the boss, not her.

BABY MUST BE ASSOCIATED WITH POSITIVE BUT CALM CONSEQUENCES, HOWEVER A CORRECTION OR TWO MAY BE NECESSARY

Dogs should associate the new member of the family with good things. However, this MUST be done in a calm manor. If your dog is super excited about toys, but is only mildly excited about petting, use a pat as a reward around baby, not the toy. Find something that your dog enjoys, but that keeps the energy level low. Some dogs will lie calmly chewing a bone for hours, and this can be used as a reward every time baby is around. The bone is only offered to the dog when baby is close by, associating baby with a calm, but positive, rewarding activity (only do this if your JRT has no resource guarding issues). If your Jack has no food aggression or possessive behaviour, having baby in your arms every time you feed the dogs also associates baby with a positive consequence.

There are times when a minor correction may have to be used and this can be in the form of a voice correction (agh, agh), a touch, a leash correction or even just a look for some softer dogs. A minor correction is used when the dog becomes too pushy or too excited around your infant and you want to bring the energy level down. If need be, go back to the basics and keep the dog on leash so she is easier to control. Umbilical training works great with this situation as it keeps the dog involved, active but under control.

THE DOG SHOULD NOT BE IGNORED EVERY TIME BABY ARRIVES ON SCENE

Ignoring the dog, or putting the dog away when baby is out creates an environment for jealousy. If your JRT is under control, there should be no reason to exclude him or her from being around during family time. In a calm moment, hold the baby and call the dog over to pet her. Petting is a calming touch (nice long gentle strokes or a chest rub) and keeps the dog in the right frame of mind in baby’s presence. Ignoring the dog while holding the baby can possibly create jealousy in some dogs, there for having a negative impact on the relationship between the two. This point ties into the above point, as it helps the dog to relate positive experiences with baby and not abandonment or jealousy.

THE DOG MUST HAVE A SAFE HAVEN

Though this is the last point, it may just be the most important. Every JRT should have a place to go once baby is on the move, so that they can “get away”. It could be a crate, a soft bed, a blanket, but it must be a spot that baby is not allowed to enter or better yet, a spot where baby cannot get to. Dogs who aren’t given this reprieve can become frustrated from constant harassment, and can lash out. That being said, if you have control over both baby and dog this should never be the case. So just remember, the dog may need to get away sometimes just as much as you do, but they can’t tell you that they want a break, so make sure to give them their own “getaway”, safe from prying hands.

Over all, though some steps and training can take time, integration of the new arrival to the household should be an easy one. If you notice that you are having some problems with keeping your Jack Russell calm, or controlled and are unsure how to proceed, do not be afraid to contact a local dog trainer to help you with any issues that may arise. Speaking with a trainer and getting some hands on education is a much better option than giving the dog up (unless there is a safety issue in regards to terrier and child). Keep positive, consistent and fair and you will help build a wonderful relationship that your child and dog will greatly benefit from.

*Please note: interaction between children and dogs of any age should ALWAYS be supervised by an adult.

Julie Deans © 2011
dogtraining101@hotmail.com

Body Language - Dog Trainer in Milton Ontario

Huge eyes, tense muscles and quick movement are all saying, "throw the ball dammit!"

Dogs are very skilled creatures with reading body language, so be careful what you say with your movements.

Actually, most animals are masters in communication of subtle shifts and changes in the body and face. Because animals do not possess a spoken language such as ours, they reply on the language of the body (as well as grunts, growls, howls, barks, squeaks etc.) for communicating with others. Because dogs have to live with us, deal with us and rely on us, they've become masters at reading us.

Observe your dog next time you make a move towards the leash hanging at the door. Often times this means an outing for your companion, which for them, can garner extreme excitement. As you make your way towards the leash, you wonder, how does he know? Is he reading my mind? Does he know what I'm thinking, that I'd like to stroll with him? Wouldn't it be interesting if dogs were clairvoyant; though it would be almost impossible for them to tell us the winning lottery numbers, and then, really, what's the point in seeing into the future? Alas, they are not all seeing, all knowing mystical creatures, rather, they are picking up cues from your movements about what is going to happen next.

Why is knowing this so important? Well, during training, this can mean the difference between a good recall and a great one. If you are not interested in competing with your dog in formal venues, then you don't need to worry about the fancy sit on recall or finish on recall. What you need to worry about is that your dog will recall, period. Standing stiff, barking out an order, and looking somewhat menacing, is not enticing your dog to come to you nor will running after him when he decides not to listen (instead, that turns into a game of haha, you can't catch me on the dogs behalf). Moving away in a playful gesture, crouching down, and making your voice "biscuit" smooth will definitely entice your dog to come. Why the difference? Your body language is saying I'm fun to be with, and who doesn't want to be with someone fun?

Dogs are also great at communicating with us using body language, though we usually get a C- in understanding what they mean. When you eat your lunch, and your dog is observing you, keenly, waiting for a morsel to drop, watch them as they look at you, look at your plate, look at you, look at your plate, and so on. It's pretty easy to imagine what they mean by this, but often times these communications go unnoticed.

Overall, it is important to remember what our bodies are saying to our dogs during training, as this can greatly improve the results that you will see. And, keep in mind that it is also important to observe what our dogs bodies are saying to us. Who knows, one day it might be something profound.

The Dreaded Thunder - Milton Ontario Dog Trainer

A thunder storm can make everyone stressed and nervous.

Remember how scary thunder was when you were a child? And how the lightening added to the fear? But your parents explained that there was nothing to fear, and it couldn't really hurt you unless you stood outside under the tallest tree in the back yard or tallest metal object on the playground.

Unfortunately, we can not explain away this natural phenomenon to our dogs. There is no way of telling them that it won't hurt them, and that the sound is, well that, just a sound.

It is a controversial subject, how to control your dogs fear during thunderstorms, with many suggested measures that can be taken to help alleviate the fearful response. Some suggest ignoring the reaction from your dog, others admit a good distraction works well, while still other are in a debate whether or not comforting your dog has any negative affects.

I was awoken the other night at about 1:15am to a 7 month old baby, roused from sleep by the thunder. Then, at 3:30am, a little dog crept in my room, pacing and shivering because of the weather outside.

What I have found works well is a distraction during the storm, such as a game with favorite toy, or a trick training session with much adored treats. I have also found that allowing the dog to remain in his or her "comfort zone", often times a crate, plush bed, beneath one of their favorite persons legs or a certain room, will reduce some of the worry from your storm hating canine.

At 3:30am, a rousing game of fetch is definitely out of the question, so a trip to the crate, complete with soft bedding, was the option I choose, and what was left of the night remained peacefully quite.

Of course, not all dogs will respond in kind to the above suggestions. If you have a dog who is reactive during bad weather, don't be afraid to try something new to help her out. Get creative, be empathetic and remember to remain calm yourself. If you are afraid of storms, this is just going to exacerbate your dogs reaction, so enlist someone else who can keep it together when the lightening strikes to help you with your dog if you begin to feel panicky at the first sign of rain.

If, at any time, your dog's reactions become progressively worse, seek the help of a local trainer or behaviourist and they can also give you some ideas to try and help your friend through the stormy season.

Labeling & Repetition

Can dogs be taught without the use of treats or compulsion? They most certainly can. I am not down playing the use of reward based training, because it is a fantastic tool, but rather I'm looking outside the box to help our canine companions understand what it is we are trying to convey.

How often do you talk to your dogs? I will venture a guess and say that a lot of you are like me, and babble to your dog throughout the day (sometimes waiting for an intelligent, witty reply that never comes). Talking comes as naturally to us humans as breathing, and though our dogs don't understand a good portion of what we are saying, we still enjoy including them in our conversations.

Now here comes the good part. Although our dogs may not understand our technically one-sided conversations, we can at least help them to get the jest of what we are saying. Really, why not utilize a tool that comes so naturally to us as gabbing. I'm not implying that your dog is going to catch on to why you don't like the Conservative Party, or why you think those shoes make your ankles look fat, but rather they may catch on to single words, or even directive phrases without the use of treats or compulsion.

Labeling and repetition go a long way in training. Think of how we entice babies to say their first word or name their first object. We repeat, repeat, repeat the label of the object, person or thing that it is we are directing them to.

So why can't that work with dogs, why can't we label and repeat without the use of treats for certain tasks or objects? It can, and the key of course, is repetition (and ahhh yes, consistency). You don't need a treat to help your dog learn that "bone" really means his partially destroyed Nyla that's lying in his bed or that it's diner time when you utter the coveted "food" word. All you need is repetition - no clicker, no prong collar, no cookies, just plain old repeating yourself and being consistent about it.

Good timing is also key. Adding a label of the word "bone" to the dogs bone, and then expecting her to understand the word "bone" while the bone sits on the floor, 5 feet away, you are holding a flank steak and a mouse has happened through your kitchen on it's daily stroll is not good timing. Good timing means as you play with your dog, pick up the bone, show it to her, say "get your bone" and hand it over. This doesn't have to be an intense training session. It can be incorporated into play, and used very casually, but the dog will eventually understand that when you say "bone" it means, well, the bone, because the repetition of the word has made a tiny little connection to the object at hand.

You can actually teach more complex tasks with repetition and no obvious reward (though something you may not think is rewarding, most certainly is to your dog ... some dogs like the taste of their own feces). I have taught my little Jack Russell to "get into the arms" so that I can pick her up. And though there is no obvious reward, the repetition simply directed her to carry out the behaviour. I'd pick her up with my hands under her belly, and every time I did I would repeat "get into the arms" until eventually I could hold out both arms, say the magic phrase and she would walk over and stand above my outstretched appendages, awaiting lift-off.

So try it out, it can be a fun and rewarding task for the average dog owner, as it can be done very casually. Although, keep in mind, when casually done, the directive doesn't sink in over night. Take your time, and be patient and you will most certainly see results without begging, bribing or forcing your dog do do anything.

Julie Deans ©2011